August 2008

Outerwear Gets Rugged

 

Selling the right outerwear for end-users who work outdoors or in factories, or for emergency response personnel or firefighters, isn’t just about picking the right style and colors. Distributors share how they matched their clients’ requirements – waterproof, tear-proof, fireproof and more – to the perfect outerwear.

By Deborah Jeanne Sergeant

I'm working with first-responder departments right now whose members aren’t just fighting fires, they’re also responding to car accidents and other incidents, so they need a wide range of protection,” says Julie Banz, regional sales director for Transcon Mfg., a Los Angeles-based manufacturer of first-responder uniforms that was acquired by Elbeco in 2005. These customers, she adds, are looking not just for flame-resistant outerwear, but also for water resistance and protection against bloodborne pathogens and other risks.

Beyond the natural elements, some professions, such as construction, factory and technical repair, and emergency response, require tougher-than-tough outerwear to help workers get their jobs done safely and in comfort. To offer protection from heat, fire, moisture, chemicals, bloodborne pathogens or the elements often requires outerwear with certain specifications. Understanding these clients’ employment hazards and outerwear requirements will help you find them just the
right gear.

What’s hot now
Chris Allen, sales manager at Codet Newport Corp. (asi/45605), says sales of his company’s flame-resistant jackets are taking off. “It’s taking off like a bad weed,” he says, somewhat tongue-in-cheek, but in an economy where business owners are pulling way back on the spending, that’s a good thing. Companies in the petrochemical, electrical, power and refinery sectors, which have to be compliant with National Fire Protection Association and insurance safety standards, are becoming big buyers of logoed outerwear.

Codet’s other workwear-type jackets, such as duck canvas outerwear, are “selling at an average to increased rate,” Allen says. “I attribute that to, for example, mechanics and other automotive-type businesses that are cutting back on heating fuel and ar turning to more rugged outerwear to keep them warm as they work.”

Similarly, Cathy Groves, vice president of sales and marketing at Dri Duck Traders (asi/50835), says outerwear is a growing category in a tough economy. She identifies four types of outerwear that are selling well. For one, “Performance wear is such a big buzzword,” she says. “Water-repellent soft shells are hot because end-users get dual usage out of them, for work and recreation.” Like Codet, Dri Duck’s canvas jackets are hot sellers, but for agricultural programs. Cotton organic jackets are also big sellers in Texas and California, where the bulk of U.S. organic farming happens. Finally, women’s wear is still hot, including performance and canvas jackets, especially in more rugged work environments.

This duck blanket-lined jacket features a corduroy collar, zip left-chest pocket, two hand-warmer pockets and more. Lining is 65/35 acrylic/polyester. Shell has a water-repellent finish. This heavy-duty jacket is great for outdoor jobs such as construction. Available from Dickies Occupational Wear (asi/49675), style 758, 12 oz. 100% cotton high-performance jacket in brown. Reader Service #152For more rugged professions, function probably trumps all categories as the most important feature for outerwear. With some of the top segments for outerwear being construction, factories, utility companies, service personnel such as police and emergency medical technicians, and government organizations, such as the Federal Emergency Management Association, an all-weather garment must be high-functioning.

In addition to safety functions, outerwear needs to protect the wearer from all types of weather conditions. For example, “our waterproof Stormtech line features sealed zippers and pockets,” says Margaret Crow, marketing director for S&S Activewear (asi/84358). “We’re seeing a lot of the performance features spill over into the outerwear market.” Indeed it would make sense that the stain- and water-resistant features that are popular on shirts would figure prominently on outerwear as well.

Whether permanent, removable or hidden, hoods are another important feature. “The hooded styles are the best selling fit as well as feature that we offer,” says Heidi McKinley, senior vice president for Edelman Southwest (Dickies). “Also, extreme cold wear, like our Arctic Shield products, are doing very well.”

With the ever-increasing use of cell phones in addition to the various tools of the trade, workers need pockets. “Our jackets are equipped with a lot of pockets and zippers,” Crow says. “An important feature is that the pockets have waterproof zippers.”

Though styles in outerwear for performance-driven professions are mainly utilitarian, there are some emerging trends to note. “We’re seeing a movement toward more retail-looking designs and less basic uniform styles,” McKinley says. “Different colors and new fabrics are sold in this industry more and more now, along with performance outerwear. We’re also seeing specialty knits, like bonded fleece as well as Sherpa, performing well.”

How about colors? “The popular colors are still navy and black, but we are also seeing reds and browns selling well,” McKinley says. Dark colors are practical for hiding dirt, but some brighter colors can be added for a new touch. Crow says that orange is a hot color now, either as the main color or as a second color on trim and zipper pulls. “We’re seeing a big demand for camouflage,” says Morey Mayeri, president of Royal Apparel (asi/83731). “For example, we’ve added a camo print to our full-zip, hooded, fleece-lined jackets.”

Markets to WatchHere are three industries that require more performance-based outerwear, and examples of distributors who succeeded in matching their clients’ requirements to the right apparel.

1. Outdoor workers. Whether laboring in construction, farming or landscaping, or other outdoor trades, warmth combined with wind and rain protection, represent the best combination to keep workers comfortable.

Each year Ryan Homes, one of the country’s biggest home builders, purchases jackets for its employees to brave the elements while finishing homes all along the East Coast. Selling the jackets is a big job for Dave Bannerton, president of TD Promotions Inc. (asi/340963).

“You tend to have a very short period of time to show these guys apparel,” he says. “They’re not there to take their time and go shopping. That’s why I take a very basic jacket style.”

Bannerton limits the choices to four styles. A couple of years ago, he showed several expensive brand-name jackets, along with a waterproof three-in-one style from Ash City (asi/37127). From the first meeting, he knew he had something with the Ash City jacket.

The jacket’s layered construction appealed to Ryan Homes. With one purchase, the construction company could cover the wide range of environments its employees were working in, and it could be adjusted for the weather on a daily basis. After the sale, employees from other departments started asking for the jacket, and sales soared. The first year the company ordered 45 jackets, but by the second year word of mouth had pushed the order to more than 300.

“A lot of companies think of North Face or Columbia, but when most buyers get into that price range, they blink and say it’s way too expensive,” Bannerton says. “But the Ash City jacket is a quality jacket at a great price point, especially when you explain it takes the place of two jackets.”
That’s also what Cindy LeClair, manager of A Colorful Presence (asi/165281), was looking for when she was approached by Bay Area Plastering, a DePere, WI-based construction company.

The Wisconsin winters are cold, and construction work is often hard on fabrics. Building materials’ rough edges wear the fibers, and the dirty work necessitates frequent machine washings. Instead of offering too many choices or limiting her client to one or two, LeClair researched and found five examples that she felt her client would like.

“I obtained samples of each and was able to present them to him in a way that highlighted the similarities as well as pointing out the differences, allowing him the opportunity to make an educated decision,” LeClair says.

The client’s buyer chose the Duck Sherpa-lined hooded jacket (TJ350) from Williamson-Dickie Mfg. Co. (asi/55645) for its warmth and durability, and he subsequently gave them as Christmas gifts to his work crew.

The full jacket back on each coat was embroidered with the company logo (which incorporates the outline of the state of Wisconsin) and the left chest was personalized with each employee’s name, making the jacket a truly special gift.

“The employees were able to wear the jackets to each job site, be identified as one of Bay Area’s employees and preserve their own apparel,” LeClair says.

Some jacket choices for outdoor workers includes those from Dri Duck Traders, which offers two top-selling jackets, the Storm (item 5046) and the Cheyenne (item 5020). Both are made of Dri Duck’s signature cotton canvas Boulder Cloth and are quilt-lined. The Storm is fully waterproof and windproof, making it a good choice for outdoor workers. Small details such as sealed seams and strategically located pocket welts keep snow and rain out. A special membrane film between the jacket’s layers and a Teflon finish block the wind. The Cheyenne has articulated elbows, inside pockets with closures, a three-piece hood, quilted lining, and extra-strength knit trim with spandex.

2. Mechanical/industrial employees. Working with heavy equipment requires gear that can stand up to the elements, caustic chemicals and heavy tools. When one of the nation’s largest telecommunication companies tapped E.O. Dunbar Associates (asi/184997) in Lady Lake, FL, to supply outerwear, the distributor “made sure the item listed their compliancy information,” says Margy Linn, vice president.

The client required reflective stripes, heatproof and waterproof treatments, and industrial, commercial-grade fabric to provide visibility in low-light conditions and protection from job hazards that include inclement weather, working around utility equipment and using power tools.

To meet these requirements, E.O. Dunbar selected jackets (HV-RJ3) and pants (HV-RP) from Classic Industrial Supplies (asi/45323). “They’re used for disasters around the country, including 9/11, floods, tornadoes, hurricanes and other national disasters,” Linn says.

But even when it’s a common rainstorm that has downed communication lines, employees can work more safely and comfortably in reflective jackets and pants.

E.O. Dunbar had the items screen printed, which was the supplier’s recommendation for embellishment.

One hot-selling coat for this crowd is from Codet Newport Corp., which carries Big Bill’s fleece-lined duck canvas jacket (CD1954). Allen cites it as one of the company’s most popular items, and with good reason. The sturdy fabric and sensible construction can hold up to the rigors of active work. The enzyme wash finish “doesn’t destroy the fibers,” Allen says. “We also use a 12 oz., double-yarn twist fabric versus a 10 oz. basic yarn fabric, which is pretty much a standard fabric these days.”

Triple-needle stitches and “X” bar tacking add to its strength. The jacket’s inner cell pocket will help keep a phone handy and safe. It also boasts another inner pocket for pen and paper. The polyester lining provides extra protection from wind and moisture. The jacket comes in black, navy and timber. “This jacket is fairly easy to embroider, according to some of our customers, and fits like a glove,” Allen says.

3. Emergency response personnel. Firefighters, police officers, medical technicians and other responders need outerwear that offers protection from many different types of hazards, in heat, low-light conditions and the elements. Kristine DeKlotz, owner of Marketing Innovations (asi/261801), has supplied jackets for the St. Luke’s Hospital Lifeguard Air Ambulance in Cedar Rapids, IA. Her client requested waterproof and reflective jackets to accommodate “extreme weather conditions for accident scenes, so that the flight crew is dry and visible when transporting a critical-care patient,” DeKlotz says.

To find just the right jacket, she considered all the hospital administration’s suggestions and comments, and came up with SanMar’s (asi/84863) Port Authority safety vest and safety jacket, both with reflective taping.

Since the client required both safety and protection, DeKlotz was able to sell a program that included mesh vests for summer and warmer jackets for colder and rainy weather.

SanMar’s Port Authority Safety Challenger Jacket “is one of our most versatile designs,” says Lee Strom, senior marketing manager. The jacket’s Teklon shell repels water, and with its heavyweight fleece lining and poly fill keeps a wearer warm. The sleeves are lined with nylon, which makes the jacket easy to put on quickly.  

SanMar offers reflective taping in yellow or orange and sizes from XS-6XL, along with tall sizes, so it’s easier to outfit workers of all builds. “Another important element that should factor into outerwear decisions is the availability of colors and sizes,” Strom says.

Distributors might want to check out Gerber Outerwear’s EMS jacket, which offers the best of both worlds, meeting National Fire Protection Association 1999 (2003 edition) standards for protection against bloodborne pathogens and Class 3 ANSI Visibility; a removable fleece liner provides warmth.

Ask These Five Questions
Choosing the right way to add a logo can make all the difference.

If you ask your potential outerwear clients these five questions up front, you’ll find the right samples and items for your client.

1. Are your employees under OSHA or other regulatory rules regarding their outerwear? If you don’t meet the standards required by law, nothing else matters.

2. What are your employees’ job hazards by job title? Exposed flame, inclement weather, chemical exposure and low visibility represent just a few. Make sure the client separates the hazard by job title, so that if you need to, you can order different items for different jobs’ scenarios.

3. What qualities in a garment would make employees more comfortable? Moisture-wicking, vents, looser-cut styling, breathable fabric, fleece lining – any of these can be features that make a piece of rugged outerwear better.

4. What additional features would your employees like? Cell phone pockets, MP3 player portholes and other structural features can make rugged outerwear even more desirable.

5. Do you want accessories with the coats? Sell your client on matching bibs, pants, hats, gloves, boots and other rugged outerwear.

Smart Embellishment Checklist
Choosing the right way to add a logo can make all the difference.

1. Pick a pocket. “I always look for companies who have embroidery pockets because it makes access to the garment easier and cleaner when embroidery is requested,” says Kristine DeKlotz, owner of CR Promos (asi/261801).

For one, Vantage Apparel (asi/93390) offers the Zocket, a patented embroidery pocket, on several of its items. The embroidery pocket allows decorators to embroider a jacket without stitching through the lining, and it also functions as an inside zippered pocket.

2. Check the tolerances. “Not all materials work well with screen printing, because some garments aren’t tolerant of high dryer temperatures or solvents,” DeKlotz says. And some users, such as firefighters, will subject the garment to high temperatures.

Cathy Groves, vice president of sales and marketing for Dri Duck Traders (asi/50835), recommends embroidery for most rugged jackets, because “you can capture any intricate detail in the logo and at the same time embroidery provides a rich, textured look against the rugged fabric. It is also very durable and can withstand multiple washings,” she says.

3. Too thick to stitch? “If you intend to embroider the back of any rugged outerwear item, make certain the item is constructed in a way that you can embroider it,” says Cindy LeClair, manager of A Colorful Presence (asi/165281). “We ran into this problem with some coats that were too thick and couldn’t be hooped. It was a big disappointment for me as well as our client.”

4. Try the latest in high-tech decorating: “Laser etching on apparel – on denim or microfibers – can burn images right into the apparel,” says Ira Neaman, president of Vantage Apparel. “It’s very cool. We’re doing it now and we’ll be showing it in our new catalog; it burns off the top 64th layer of the fabric, and the image is incredible. We just got a machine to do it in the summer and it’s going to be huge.”

5. Test it out. “We always provide a sample proof to our clients, whether embroidered or imprinted, to make sure its effectiveness hasn’t been compromised in any way by the embellishment we used,” says Margy Linn, vice president of E.O. Dunbar Associates (asi/184997).

DEBORAH JEANNE SERGEANT contributing writer based in NY.
JOAN CHAYKIN and MATT HISTAND contributed to this report.